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The one book that shows you how to fix anything anywhere in your home! There are a million things that can go wrong in your home. Faucets leak. Floorboards creak. Paint flakes. Chairs break. From changing lightbulbs to fixing a kitchen cabinet hinge, How to Fix Absolutely Anything is a collection of the most indispensible advice and tips from people across the world who face the same problems you do.

Hundreds of color photographs and easy-to-follow instructions make this book perfect for all levels of experience. With How to Fix Absolutely Anything , the solution is only a few pages away. Get A Copy. Paperback , pages. Published May 27th by Skyhorse first published May 6th More Details Other Editions 2. Friend Reviews. To see what your friends thought of this book, please sign up.

To ask other readers questions about How to Fix Absolutely Anything , please sign up. Be the first to ask a question about How to Fix Absolutely Anything. Lists with This Book. This book is not yet featured on Listopia. Community Reviews. Showing Rating details. Sort order. I read this after I was scrubbing the black goo off my hands. Probably a good idea to wear gloves. Load the tube into the gun. To do this, press the metal safety catch at the back, and the long bit of metal slides easily out. Put the tube in, with the beading nozzle on, into the gun, then press the catch again and slide the metal into the base of the tube.

Since I had extra and I never wanted to use the stuff again plus it dries out , I went round it a second time once the glass was clamped in place to make a full seal. Get it roughly lined up and put it back in place. As you can see, the glass cleaned up nicely. Once in place I ran a second line of beading round the glass to make sure the seal was complete. Cast iron is an amazing cooking surface.

Heavy and thick, it acts as an amazing heat reservoir and is excellent for searing steaks and other fine meats at your disposal. Many a time, an unskilled, forgetful, or uninformed aspiring chef will let the pan soak, leave it in a moist place, or even accidentally run it through the dishwasher. Ruin and shame! Avert thine eyes!

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Bring out the maimed and sad pans from deep within your cabinets! Cast iron away your shame! We can fix this.


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This particular pan met its rusty fate when a wet mixing bowl was left on top of it and ignored for a week or so. View my shame, and learn from my mistake! If you have a self-cleaning oven and a pan with some serious gunk or buildup, run your pan through the self-clean cycle. Any debris will be annihilated, and you can continue on with the following steps to restore your pan to its former glory. Leaving your pan in an acid soak for any longer than that may start to eat away at your pan, so be careful.

Let your pan dry before getting to this bit, or you can try scrubbing in the solution as well to pick up any debris. The main idea of this step is to get rid of all the rust that has eaten away at your pan. I used a copper scrubber, but depending on the severity of damage, you can use anything from rock salt for spot touches to a drill-mounted metal scour for those heavy-duty jobs.

Time to fatten your baby up. Get a nice thick and even coating of your fat of choice all over your pan. Lard can stomach from to degrees Fahrenheit, while many vegetable-based shortenings will only tolerate a lower range, say to degrees Fahrenheit. Use a higher smoking-point fat if you can. Pre-heat your oven until about degrees Fahrenheit and place your pan in. Use a baking sheet to catch any drippings—you may find that flipping your pan upside-down and putting the cast iron directly on your oven rack dripping pan underneath will work better, depending on the extent of lard-ification you sent your pan through.

After letting your pan warm up for 10 to 15 minutes or so, crank up the heat to near the smoking point of your fat. This gradual heating allows for the iron to slowly expand, preventing any cracks or fractures. Let your pan bake at full temperature for 45 minutes, and then let cool. Depending on the appearance of your pan after this baking cycle, you may want to repeat the scrubbing process once again.

Repeat the greasing and baking as needed. Restoring cast iron is a pain, but maintaining it is quite simple—remember to scrape any food debris away, dry, and coat with a layer of fat while still warm. Have fun! My wife was making potato wedges when, in the middle of cooking, the bottom oven element caught fire and started to sparkle like a party sparkler. I ran for my camera and when I got back to the kitchen it was over. My wife turned off the stove and when I turned the stove back on nothing happened. A point of note: know your stove.

They only used their oven once or twice a year and the timer had the oven turned off. Then they would take out the two screws holding the burner in place, pull out the burner, disconnect the wires, and go out to their truck to retrieve a replacement burner. They come back, connect the wires to the replacement burner, screw it in place, close the oven door, turn the oven on, and start to fill out the bill as they wait for the oven to heat up to confirm it is working.

I cannot express this enough: safety first. This stove runs on volts at 30 amps, which is times what is needed to kill you, so turn off the power before you do anything inside the stove. If your stove is hardwired, turn off the breaker or remove the fuses. It may be a pain to go back and forth from the breaker box every time you want to test something, but it is not as painful as being fried at volts and 30 amps. I am lucky my stove plugs in, so all I have to do is unplug the stove when I want to do a repair. Before testing, remove all visibly damaged parts and render all lines safe; they are a hazard that can be rendered safe, and safety first!

Elements are connected by crimp-on connectors that ether push on or are screwed on; either way, disconnecting the wires is easier from the back. Remove the back cover of the stove and inspect all the wires, remove all damaged or burnt wires, and cap or wrap in electrical tape. In my case, this part was easy. Nothing was damaged in the back of the stove so I disconnected the leads from the bottom element and covered the crimp-on connectors with shrink tube.

Now that the wires are disconnected from the bottom element it is time to remove the bottom element inside the oven. On this stove the bottom element is held in place with two screws. Now that you have all the damaged parts removed, test what you have left. Start by connecting your meter to the element leads; safety first, so do this before you plug the stove back in or turn on the power. Set your meter to the highest setting and only lower the setting if you need to.

My meter only has two settings for AC, volts and volts, so I set the meter for volts. Then plug in the stove and test all the oven functions. When on bake, the bottom element leads should register source voltage, in my case volts—much higher than the volt setting on my meter. When on broil the bottom element should show 0 volts and the upper element in the oven should get hot.

How To Fix Absolutely Anything : A Homeowner\'s Guide

Close the oven door and wait for the oven to reach temperature and for the broil element to turn off, this tells you the thermostat works. Once you have confirmed everything works, unplug the stove and disconnect the meter from the bottom element leads. This one got so hot it was throwing sparks like molten steel, electrical arcs, and flames. The bubbling on the element you see is the melted outer tubing of the element. An element should be black and smooth with no marks; on some blown elements it may be as subtle as a small crack or swelling in the element.

So I went through my spare parts and found three oven elements, of which only one was close to the one I needed to replace. I could have used this element but I wanted one closer to the original, and it gives my wife a chance to clean the oven without the element in the way. I decided to put the stove back together so my wife could use the stovetop to cook, and when my local appliance store opens on Monday get a better matching element.

How to Fix Absolutely Anything: The Instructables Guide to Home Repair

Well Monday came and the appliance and music store is open. Now that the oven has been cleaned, I unplug the stove and remove the backing as well as the two screws that hold the element in place. I put the new element in place and screw it to the back of the oven, then I remove the shrink tube and attach the wires. I next put the backing on the stove. Once I have the stove assembled, I plug the stove in and push it back in place before testing the oven one last time. You can just turn on the oven and see if the element gets hot; however, I like to check the thermostat one last time.

You do this by placing an oven thermometer in the oven and watching it go through a couple of cycles while checking the temperature to see if it is the same as the setting on the oven control. Whether the repairperson is a half-blind, grey-haired, fat S. I retired it and bought a new one shortly after a coworker used it to and cracked the tip off. Well, I was looking at this knife the other day and thinking about how perfectly usable it is, except for the fact that it has no tip.

How to Fix Absolutely Anything: A Homeowner's Guide

So I thought. Using a Sharpie or other marking device, draw on a new tip. Shade in the section you want to remove. If you want to see the end result, hold the knife up to a cloth of the same color as the pen e. In this way, you will be able to see the shape of your new knife. I wanted to preserve the length of this knife and also avoid having to put a new cutting edge on it, so I opted to shave just a little off the top.

Note: Using this method will slightly change the shape of your knife. To preserve the shape, take some off the top and bottom, then put a new cutting edge on it yourself or have a professional do it for you. Clamp the knife firmly onto your work surface. I do not recommend holding the knife in your hand while trying to do this for two reasons:.

Use a Dremel with a metal cutting blade attached to it to cut off the dark-shaded area. Run the Dremel full speed; however, slow and steady motions with very light pressure will produce a nice, rounded cut.


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  5. The hard part is over. Now use the Dremel with the following attachments in numerical order to clean up the cut. I used an aluminum oxide, two-sided sharpening stone followed by a diamond-impregnated honing steel to get it nice and sharp. I have had this bread knife for about 20 years, and it still has a sharp blade.

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    The wooden handle started to rot a while ago from being left in the kitchen sink too many times , so it was time to make a new handle. The old handle on my bread knife had partially rotted off, and I had wrapped it temporarily with packing tape. I removed the packing tape and the rotten wood. As you can see in the second photo, there are four metal rivets. Two of the rivets are female hollow , and the other two male are inserted into them from the opposite side. I cut off the rivets with a hacksaw this can be tricky so be careful.

    Note: Throughout the entire process I handled the knife with the blade taped up to prevent any accidents. I used a piece of laminated pine from some shelving I made a while ago, so I knew the wood as quite dry a recently cut tree branch, for example, might split as it dries. The original handle was slightly tapered toward the center, so I followed the shape of the tang part of the knife in the handle.

    After cutting the wood to the appropriate shape I wanted, I cut a slot down the center for the blade to fit into snugly. Once the shape was just right, I drilled two holes matching the location of the holes left by the rivets. I also countersunk the holes slightly to accommodate the copper wire spreading slightly at both ends see next step.

    In this step, I passed two pieces of copper wire through the holes in the wood, with the knife blade inserted. As I plan to keep the knife dry, I chose to make the handle with only the copper wire pins, but using some epoxy glue in the slot will ensure that it is waterproof and prevent rotting. I cut the wire so that about 3 mm protruded on either side, but a bit longer 4 to 5 mm would have been better. Using a hammer with a rounded head ball peen is best , I held the handle on top of the anvil and slowly pounded the copper down so that it spread out.

    This was done on both sides of the handle, so the ends of the wire filled the countersunk area. Once the pins in the handle were complete, I rubbed on a few coats of teak oil sanding with grit sandpaper between coats and then a couple of coats of varnish not varnished in this photo. This Instructable shows you how to build a multipurpose holder for displaying everything from fruits and vegetables to your beloved cellphone charger using a simple metallic kitchen whisk. First of all you need to remove that metallic holder piece in the center of the whisk.

    Use a pincher to cut the metal next to the holes of each arm of the whisk. Then you can remove the metallic holder. Bend up one of the petal-shaped whisk part so that it is perpendicular to the handle. Make it a little curved up so that it can sustain the weight of a small object. Leave the petal which is planar to the wall holder so that it can rest along the wall see next step. Fold up all petals except one: the petal which is in the same plane as the wall holder will act as a stabilizer. Make sure the stabilizer touches the wall all the way. You can make it more round for more stability.

    Stability can be further enhanced with blue-tack patafix or hanging a small load to the stabilizer petal. Haters of messy pan cupboards everywhere, rejoice! I first did a similar hack a few years ago whilst a student. Finding pan lids annoyed me as much then as it does now, and so after seeing a very elegant solution on Instructables, I set out to make it even simpler. Here we are: cheap and easily available sticky hooks. You will need. That is it. Hold up your selection of pan lids against the cupboard door.

    Things you may want to consider are whether the bottom one will stick out too far into your cupboard and interfere with objects sitting on the bottom shelf. If you draw them too close to 3 and 9, the lid will fall out; if you draw them too close to 5 and 7, it might not be so stable. Peel the tabs off the stick pad and slap the hooks on the door with the hooks pointing to the approximate center of where. This action might not be possible to undo. Are you sure you want to continue?

    Upload Sign In Join. Save For Later. Create a List. Summary The one book that shows you how to fix anything anywhere in your home! Read on the Scribd mobile app Download the free Scribd mobile app to read anytime, anywhere. Step 2: First Step Remove the original screws and hold on to them; you will be reinstalling them at the end. Step 3: Apply Glue and Wood You want to apply glue to the end of the toothpick or skewer that you are going to insert into the existing screw hole in the cabinet.

    Step 4: Reinstall the Screws and Pat Yourself on the Back Align the door and reinstall the screws the screws you removed and kept into the cabinet face, and your project is complete. Main Rack: 1. Straighten the hanger, leaving the hook at the end. Bend 3" from non-hook end. Bend 2" from last bend along the same plane.

    Repeat steps 1 to 4 in reverse order to make the rack symmetrical. Bend the excess with the hook until it breaks off. Support Piece: 1. Take the remainder with hook. Curl the end into a tight circle. Step 4: Mounting Rack This step is highly dependent on your mounting location. Measure the spacing and location of your hangers. Mark drill spots. Drill holes.